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The edible plot

paddock to plate, life and the stuff in between

Charity Starts at Home

StvinHi Folks,

I thought I would do something great for the community and try and help out our homeless folk. This year Ill be doing the St Vinnies Corporate Sleep Out to raise much needed funds for the homeless folk in the region.

What this means for me, is I will now be sleeping out on the street on a piece of cardboard with a  group of like minded corporate fellows to hopefully raise enough funds to get those folks in need out of the wether and into some accommodation.

if your keen to sponsor my cause, please click on this Link: Sponsor Nick

Thank all for your consideration

Barks

 

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Planting in May and my Sweet Potato Surprise

 

Hi Folks, long time no talk since I last wrote,  as I have been suckered into the corporate world of working for the man instead of connecting back with the land and connecting with you all so my apologies.

 

I have done some great work in edible plot and its coming along nicely with some great winter vegetables coming through and some autumn harvesting of my large 3 x 3 m sweet potato patch which has been quite the journey for me. I had no idea how productive sweet potato can be. I’ve grown the whole patch over two years, with minor tunnelling to harvest on occasions and wow, the yield you can get is extraordinary, I now have very happy neighbours and friends enjoying my delicious sweet potato.

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As part of the harvesting I have kept a big supply slips to replant in September and for mean time I’m going to plant kale in this patch followed by zucchini when the frost here has subsided in September.

 

The other big producer which has been later than normal is my bush beans, we have not had any frost yet with warm nights which is very rare for this time of year and the beans have been producing like there is no tomorrow. Ill get the last of the beans of the bush and chop and drop this crop in order to prepare this patch for spring.

 

 

Just as reminder to you all,  now is a great time to plant: Broad beans, Brussell Sprouts, Cabbage, Carrot, Cauliflower, Chives, Collards, Fennel, Garlic, Kale, Leeks, Lettuce, Onion, Pak Choy, Peas, Radish, Rocket, Shallots, Oregano, Silverbeet, Snow Peas, Spinach and Turnips

 

Barks

Foraging for food in your backyard

Hi again folks,

I thought I would share with you my forage from the backyard journey. As you know I have been backyard farming for a couple of years now and one thing that started me on this journey was the multitude of stories going around about people being self-sufficient from their edible plots, to me it has always been extraordinary that people can do this and for me this is the ultimate. Ever since I decided to go into my own food production I have learnt that it is really difficult to be 100% self sufficient. So over these last few years, I have wondered how could I, a man who lives in suburbia, with a mortgage, a family to feed, a full-time job, have the time, the space to be completely self sufficient with self food production? Don’t get me wrong, I would love nothing more than to till my space making food all day and every day creating healthy food, but my reality is probably similar to everyone else’s quandary who has a young family and a job.

So what I did decide was that I would always plant foods for one meal of the day, so I can step out to my back yard and whip up a quick feed from my plot. The meal I chose was to be breakfast, with my chickens, quails and ducks producing eggs, I have just managed to have a continuous supply of delicious edible greens that continue to go well accompanying the delicious eggs from the plot.

 

Here’s one of my favourite breakfast smash together that’s hearty, healthy and delicious!

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Here is a list of edibles I continually maintain to ensure each morning I can scrounge up a breakfast of some sort:

  • Rocket Lettuce
  • English Spinach
  • Chicken Eggs
  • Duck Eggs
  • Silver beet
  • Kale
  • Radishes
  • Onions
  • Garlic
  • Potatoes
  • Sweet Potatoes
  • Passion-fruit
  • Strawberries
  • Capsicum
  • Peppers
  • Chilli
  • Chives
  • Garlic Chives
  • Parsley
  • Spring Onions
  • Land Cress/Watercress
  • and various perennial herbs

In essence this is my staple planting that I generally maintain on a regular basis, or if the season permits, I do naturally grow many other edible for other meals and there are other meal applications for these edibles, but in essence I focus on having these regulars for that one important meal of the day breakfast.

And naturally the eggs, are various and plentiful, but again these require the daily animal husbandry for a high yield.

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Forward planning is key if your going to always an enough edibles in the garden, for my micro greens, it’s so important I have a regular 2-3 week turnover with sowing seeds in to keep a sustainable turnover of foods. This year I did three stages of snow peas all about 3 – 4 weeks apart, in order to have a good crop rotation and yield.

Bok choy, has been sown every two weeks, to ensure there is enough each week.

Spring Onions were planted at weekly intervals also.

Frequent harvesting to ensure a high yield is also important, for instance, I wont just rip out a whole kale or a silver beet, I will cut off 1-2 leaves of each plant, generally the largest leaves from the base of the plant, this will increase further yield and growth of the existing plant, I personally have Kale that is over 1-year-old and is almost 3 ft high due to this technique. My spring onions I tend to leave some of the root-stock in the ground for second striking of that delicious stem. Again this a plant that will keep giving, I have spinach from last winter, that is still growing due to this process. so in essence this is a great way to get a good yield from your garden and to save money.

 

 

 

What to plant in Spring

Hi Folks, I’ve been getting asked a lot of questions about what should I be planting now that it is spring. Spring, is a great time to get things started, if you haven’t already got a head start on your garden preparations, then it’s no too late to get things going in order to have a productive edible plot.

First things first is getting your soil ready, now this may take some time depending on your soil type and what was planted there before irrespective just turning the soil and aerating it will make a big difference to how successful your plantings are. If you are a bit behind then you can get some already organic composted manure to dig in a week before you get started, or kick it off with an organic soluble fertilizer.

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Here is a list of what you can plant in specific region:

Temperate Areas

HERBS – sow basil, chives, coriander, dill, min, oregano, parsley, sage and thyme.

FRUIT & VEGETABLES – Sow beans, beetroot, broccoli, Chinese cabbage, capsicum, cucumber, eggplant, endive, lettuce, melons, okra, onion, parsnip, potato, pumpkin, radish, rhubarb, rosella, silver beet, spring onion, squash, sweet corn, sweet potato, tomato and Zucchini.

Cool & Southern Tablelands

HERBS – sow basil, chives, coriander, dill, mint, oregano, parsley, sage and thyme.

FRUIT & VEGETABLES – Sow beetroot, broccoli, cabbage, capsicum, carrot, cauliflower, celery, cucumber, eggplant, endive, leek, lettuce, onion, pak choi, pea, spinach, spring onion,basil , sweet corn, zucchini and tomato.

Mediterranean

HERBS – sow basil, chives, coriander, dill, mint, oregano, parsley, sage and thyme.

FRUIT & VEGETABLES – Sow broccoli, carrot, celery, cucumber, lettuce, silver beet, snow pea, spinach, strawberry, sweet corn, zucchini and tomato.

Subtropical

HERBS – sow basil, chives, coriander, dill, mint, oregano, parsley, sage and thyme.

FRUIT & VEGETABLES –  sow beans, beetroot, Tomato, broccoli, cabbage, capsicum, carrot, chicory, Chinese cabbage, cucumber, eggplant, lettuce, melons, mustard, onion, parsnip, potato, pumpkin, radish, rosella, silver beet, squash, sweet corn, sweet potato,  watermelon.

Wet & Dry Tropical

HERBS – plant basil, chilli, chives, dill, ginger, mint, oregano and parsley.

FRUIT & VEGETABLES –  Plant beetroot, carrot, chilli, Capsicum, Chinese Cabbage, choko, corn, cucumber, french beans, leek, lettuce, eggplant, onion, radish, rockmelon, silver beet, spinach, squash, sweet potato, pumpkin, zucchini, tomato and watermelon

Dry Inland

HERBS – Protect plants from heat in late spring. inland areas have a good climate for growing all types of herbs.

FRUIT & VEGETABLES –  Stop planting most vegetables by spring, although beans, capsicum, onion, radish and sweet corn can still do well. Harvest by summer.

Folks, I hope this help you all get started for spring, just writing this has triggered my plans this season, if I have missed anything with regard to what we we can plant in spring time, please jump in and make a comment.

Barks

How to Plant Zucchini

Planting Zucchini is so easy and now if you are living in Australia’s Temperate zones it is time to plant them. For those who do live in the subtropical zones, you can plant these from July through to March and in the cold climates sow October through to December.

Sowing Seeds: Zucchinis need to be planted 2 cm deep and laid flat, the seeds will take between six to ten days to germinate, but once it has breached the surface it grows very quickly.

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Basic Care: Zucchinis love a sunny spot in soil that has been enriched with plenty of aged manure and compost. Mulch around plants to a depth of 1 inch, to preserve soil moisture and suppress weeds. Zucchini need a steady supply of water so keep them well watered.

Pollination: Generally pollination occurs quite naturally, especially if you have a good insect activity in your garden, however, some people find that this is a problem, and this may be dependent on the circumstances within your garden. One way to resolve this issue is to hand pollinate the zucchini yourself. The basic idea of hand pollination is to transfer pollen from a male flower onto the female flower. This causes the seeds in the immature fruit to become fertile, and so it grows to maturity in order to perpetuate the species. If the seeds aren’t pollinated, the plant isn’t going to waste energy growing a non-viable fruit. It just withers and drops off, and the plant tries again with a fresh flower.

The best time for pollinating zucchini flowers is in the morning, when they’re fresh and just-opened. Later in the day the heat starts to wilt the flowers and dry them out.

Understanding the different sex of the flowers is key.

Here is a male flower

male zucchini flower

Here is a female flower

female zucchini

Some people use cotton swabs or artist’s paintbrushes for pollinating zucchini flowers, but I’ve found the simplest way is to simply pick the male flower (don’t pick the female flowers!), peel off the petals of the male flower, and use it like a paintbrush to dab pollen onto the stigma of a female flower. Quick and easy.

Hand polination zucchini1

Harvesting: Zucchini plants will require harvesting within six to eight weeks after planting. The zucchini plant will produce big yellow flowers that are either male or female. It is easy to tell the difference between the two. The male flowers are on bare stalks and the female flowers have a baby zucchini attached. I find harvesting of the zucchini to be better with a small sharp knife at the base of the stalk, ripping them off seems to bruise the stem.

Problems and solutions: Slugs and snails like to munch on zucchini seedling so keep an eye out for them on your daily inspections and watering’s. During the hot humid times, the zucchini plants can be attacked by the fungal disease powdery mildew, which covers the leaves with what looks like white powder. In this instance cut off the badly affected leaves then spray with this organic spray. Mixture of 1 part milk and 9 parts water. Spray this all over the plants leaves every few days and you should get a very good result quickly. If this does get completely out of hand then I would remove the plant completely.

I hope this helps get you started with your crop, drop me line if you have any other queries, I’ve seeded around 12 plants this year in my edible plot. I’ll send through some progress pictures for you all to see.

Barks

Good old fashioned home style food production combined with modern innovation!

chook dirty water

I just love getting up in the morning and doing the routine in my edible plot, I collect the eggs feed and water the chickens, quails and ducks every morning and make sure my veggies and fruit trees are tended too. But there is one chore that has me on edge and it is always guaranteed to be needing the most attention, and that’s the water for the poultry. It absolutely sucks, it is guaranteed to be messy, with dirty chicken faeces and mud all through the feeder. The quails are just as messy, they manage to flick all matter of things into the water feeders and have the water dirty within hours and don’t get me started on the ducks! I tried every invention on YouTube, and any other goggled tutorials I could find on the internet.  All of these inventions had their own intrinsic nuances that would all ultimately result in dirty water. Some of these great idea’s worked, but only for a few days. In the end I was scrubbing and cleaning to ensure my egg producing friends had the best possible clean water.

In the end I broke from my thrifty DIY methods and I found this product, the Poultry Drinking Cups sold by Royal Rooster and it has changed my egg producing world! I now have constant clean water, which requires very little maintenance and good clean supply of water.

dcr

The Poultry Drinking Cups sold by Royal Rooster

I am a thrifty sort of a fellow with a big family to feed so I opted to just buy the cups and find my own  water vessels and tanks to suit my poultry requirements.

This particular product is very easy to install, for my chickens I used a 9 mil drill piece and simply drilled the hole into a 10 gallon bucket, I then screwed in the Poultry Drinking Cup with some plumbing tape and the vessel is complete! I then put the bucket up off the ground at a height that the chickens can comfortably reach to have a drink. This also minimises the likelihood of any debris getting into the water and now I only change the chickens water once a week! It is such a breeze now using this system.

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My quails have benefited too, at first I was challenged as to how I would set this up, but I realised that my quail didn’t need anywhere near as much water as the bigger chickens, so I  decided I would use 2 litre milk bottles and mount them in a way that was easy to change them out, using some rubber bands, some treated pine, screws and tool hooks I had lying around. In the end I managed to construct a masterpiece of hydraulic perfection. I simply drilled and screwed into the lid of the milk bottle and then but a hole at base of the bottle as an air release so the water would flow out into the cup.

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Now I am only changing out the quail water every three to four days and my cleaning of the vessel has been reduced significantly.

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The Ducks enjoy this system too as they live with my bantam chickens that I have, so in their pen I have the Poultry Drinking Cup lower, so my ducks can have a good crack at it also. Now I would have to say that my ducks are the greatest culprits for fowling up the water, and rightly so as they are water fowl and tend to do everything in the water. I have a separate vessel for them to swim in, but both of them know were the clean water is and they don’t hesitate to leave their swampy murky swimming vessel and go straight to the Poultry Drinking Cups every time.

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Cleaning these is a synch, sometimes I agitate the bulb to get more water into the cups and just self-flush whilst gleaning the cup with my fingers, and this gives a good quick result, but generally when I top the buckets up with more water, I give them a high powered water flush from the tap or the hose and scrub them out with either my fingers or a rag.

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For me the days are gone cleaning out smelly water from the drinking vessels and this is a cool opportunity for me to share with you this cool innovation in the farming world, I hope this helps you all, who battle with providing good clean water for your poultry. If you want to purchase this product directly from Royal Rooster here is the link to their website http://www.royalrooster.com.au/

Tas I’m hoping you have factored these Poultry Drinking Cups into your Chicken Tractor.

Barks

Christmas Preparations in August?

You’re all probably wondering why I’m preparing for Christmas in August? Well read on you’ll soon learn it’s about this special veggie that’s close to my heart and my family Christmas gatherings.

Christmas for me has and always will be about family, and most memorable is preparing for the day/week of visits and visiting.

When I was a youngster growing up in Southern Tasmania we lived by the skin off our knees; literally. Out the door at sun rise and home at dark, we were happy and healthy – content.

I have never associated the expectation of Christmas with presents or costs, it’s always about greetings and fun. Running through sprinklers, fishing, cricket, bike riding were the main attractions, and the more cousins, neighbours and friends the better.

It’s what bound us, what brought us together that has forged me today. Tradition is that element of community and family that I feel makes Christmas great. How my family prepared for Christmas is like riding a bike or breathing, its Mum and Dad.

It always started with Mum and Dad discussing the menu and as if it would change, when you’re on a winner you stick to it. The week preceding was hectic but we loved it, excluding the presents for a family of six children the logistics of food was probably a bigger and more important issue. The main concerns were the items that a backyard can’t produce and cherries, Mum loved cherries.

Pork, beef, and ham were sought through the butcher, orders placed weeks in advance and to specification, not that I cared but Mum was particular. Dad’s responsibility was the seafood, vegetables and gardening, more interesting for a lad.

The vegies were taken care of – more later, but the trips to the wharf for crayfish, abalone, etc. were awesome and usually required lengthy discussions with merchants and a possible treat of battered Couter or Flathead with a cordial (soft drink).

The garden was always ready with seasonal fruit and vegetables, all the standards required to complete a roast dinner which is the custom for Christmas. My favourite and still now after many years is the Tassie Pink Eye Potato.

Pink eye 2

These tasty beauties are an unusual potato with a delicate skin. They are kidney shaped with some pink flushing and are beautiful to eat. They are waxy and make magnificent potato salad and also roast to perfection.

Without a doubt pan juices and Pink eyes is my most memorable taste memory and the harvesting at Christmas with my Dad made them all the better.

This year I’m planting Pink Eyes at ‘Iona Dale’ in preparation for Christmas but in Queensland. I’m expecting that the climate here on the range is similar to many parts of Tasmania except for the cold ocean breeze off the Southern Ocean.

pink eyes

So I have ordered some certified seed and will be planting only about 4 square metres in three rows. I expect to crop from this tiny area about 50 or 60kgs of potatoes. These potatoes will be up in about three weeks’ time. But by Christmas the first delicious feed of lovely potatoes will be ready.

Keep an eye on the progress of this pink eye planting and if this has inspired you, jump in now and get your pink eyes started.

 

Tas

August – Spring Preparations

Hi there folks, I thought I should give you all a heads up on our August edible plot activities,  we are currently planting some delights in preparation for spring and summer with rocket, silverbeet, spring onions, chinese cabbage, lettuce, parsley, zucchini, watercress, land cress, onions and leeks all going into the edible plot. We have even taken the risk of planting an early crop of cherry tomatoes in our generally frost free zones which gets lost of sun, and a late crop of snow peas (second round) so wish us luck.

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In addition we are planting a green manure crop which will also add as a good foraging patch for the chickens, we will plant this out with chick peas. This green manure will add some much needed nutrients to the soil and bring some life to this old patch of dirt.

Weeds have started to pop their heads up in all our established beds, so we are giving the beds a good clean out and adding much loved green pick for the chickens at feeding time.

Mulching and composting activities have begun early and this is the time to make it happen, we just cleaned out our deep litter chicken pen and spread this around the garden beds for nutrient replacement from the last season and in preparation for this spring. We have also rotated the composting bins from this time last year and spread the nutrient dense compost wholesomely across the beds to again provide replenishment and preparation for the big spring action. We will now replenish our compost bins for next year to keep our system of replenishment going.

Pruning back and letting the sun through our surrounding trees and shrubs on our boundary that provide us with a wonderful micro climate for the edible plot and wonderful pollination for our resident pollinators will require cutting back so we can get much needed sunlight onto the food producing plots, again this is the best time to do this before spring action kicks in. We balance this pruning though as this surrounding tree and vegetation gives our edible plot the unique micro climate that benefits our plot so nicely.

Tas and I have started working on our Chicken Tractor this month which we use out on Iona Dale (Tassies farm) and we have started drafting plans for a quail tractor so our quail can be more ground based free ranging, we are keen on the ensuring the happy free range bird principle on Iona Dale Farm. Stay Tunned for the Chicken Tractor story.

Our quail production is moving forward steadily with excellent results with quail incubation, we are now on 4th batch of healthy baby quails from our of our small 24 egg incubator. Our success rate is getting better with the 4th batch producing at 90% hatch rate.

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We picked up our day old Australorp Chicks which have settled in nicely into the brooder and are growing really well, currently we are working them in with a surrogate Peking bantam hen who is slowly coming around to the idea that she is mum. We hope to give you all an update on how this progresses soon.

baby Australorps 2

Hilling up of around 4 inches of the potatoes has occurred, with good layers of straw, compost and soil all adding to the hilling up around the plants, this will ensure good yield at harvesting time.

Potato Hilling

Re mulching and compost hilling of the dormant sweet potato patch has had an instant affect with the sweet potatoes showing immediate restriking of slips coming through the ground, with piling of vegetable based compost and sugar cane mulch, the sweet potatoes should produce a good yield through the hotter months.

And a new small micro green plot has been established to grow watercress and land cress for the most delectable poached eggs on sour dough and cress with Hollandaise sauce breakfasts that we do adore so much.

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This is what we have been up to in preparation for the onset of spring, we hope that this helps motivate you all to get the jump on spring and get your plot in good order.

Barks

A Beginners guide to building your own vegetable patch

Hi Folks,

I’ve had quite a few friends ask me about starting up their own vegetable patch so I thought I should provide a basic start for those keen to get their vegetable patch up and running.

Position Position Position! Position is everything folks, having a good location that gets adequate sun is key to starting a good vegetable patch, for those living in the southern hemisphere a north facing position is key, for those living in the northern hemisphere, then a southern aspect is key. In addition you’ll need to make consideration of the season you are in also and what the next season is, as this will affect the arc that the sun propagates onto your chosen location. Remember in Summer the sun is on a very high arc and in winter the sun is on a low arc and this is naturally dependent on where you live on the planet. the below diagram is specific to the northern hemisphere.

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Tools, you’ll need some basic tools to get this garden going folks, being a thrifty sort of fellow though, I’ve always managed to get by with just a good shovel and a watering vessel or garden hose, and the two best tools that I was born with, “My Hands” but as I’ve gardened more, I recommend you consider: shovel, hoe, garden fork, trowel, small hand fork, garden hose or watering vessel, secateurs or some old scissors and gardening twine or string.

 

Soil, your soil will need preparation to get the best our of your vegetables, you’ll need to prepare the soil with a good mix of organic vegetable based compost (my preference) which will require thorough digging through your patch, or you can use an animal manure based compost, and some blood and bone to prepare the ground. Either way its your preference, the key is to get some nutrient into the soil to give your vegetables the best opportunity. Aeration of the soil is really important too, I generally dig my garden much deeper than what is required and turn this through with all the compost mixed in. once the clumps of dirt break down more, I switch from using my shovel to a pitch fork, I find this helps to aerate the area well,after this is done, I then smooth off and give a general level with hard rake. Once this has been completed I give the area a good watering. I generally leave this area sit for a couple of weeks with regular watering to let all the nutrient settle in. Small note to remember with composting is to ensure your compost material is fully composted, if it hasn’t composted fully then I recommend you let the patch sit for longer as this may burn your seedlings. On a safety note as well, ensure you are wearing full length clothing and gloves when handling compost, wear face shield to prevent any inhalation also, as there is always a strong microbial fungal and bacteria presence in your compost and it may make you very sick if you inhale this.

 

Plant selection, your plant selection will be dependent on what the season it is in your part of the world and of course what climate you live in. Generally most seeds and seedling that you buy will tell you the best time plant the seed you are choosing.

climate-world

Planting, once you have selected your seed or seedlings it is time to plant them. most seedlings provide you advice on the spacing requirement for the seed, stick to what they say as this will only go a long way, I have just thrown them in without regard, and they have worked in the past, but as I’ve managed to contain my excitement during the planting phase I have followed the instruction and have had greater success with the plant. remember to water your seedlings as soon as they go in, there are few seeds that don’t want water for a few days after planting like french climbing beans, but most seeds and seedling require immediate watering on planting.

Mulching, I tend to mulch most plant beds with whatever is available at the time, so solutions for mulching are: sugar cane mulch, dried leaves, wood pulp, saw dust wood chip or bark, dried lawn clippings. the mulching is important as it will help to keep the ground moist for you seedlings, it will also provide good protection from the elements depending on what season you are in. This will also aid in weed control for your patch, as the weeds will struggle to punch through the mulch, and if they do, they are generally very easy to pluck out.Here  is a picture of my spinach with sugar cane mulch around it. It has come along quickly after three weeks from seed.

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Maintenance, shortly after planting your seeds or seedlings, I tend to give the patch a lot of attention, ensuring that sown seeds are getting a good soaking without damaging soil structure every day. I generally do my watering at night so that the water wont be absorbed by the sun in the daylight as the water gets an increased exposure to the sun and will evaporate. If it is very warm I generally water both morning and night to ensure success. ensure you do stay on top of the weeds as well, the less other plants that your vegetable have to compete with the better chance your plants will have to thrive.

Thinning out, of some of your seedlings maybe required, depending on the type of plant you are planting, if this is required I sometime replant the plucked seedling to new location. the rational behind this is, if you have two plants close together fighting for root space then you wont get the full benefit of the plant. I sometimes wait until the plants are at an edible stage and do some thinning out then.

Fertilizer, I am not a big fan of doing fertilizing when the plants are in the ground, I believe this has already occurred during your soil preparation phase, but considering that we all have different soil requirements and depending on where we live, then may I suggest that you use a seaweed extract based fertilizer, this seems to be the best, as it has a low impact on the earth, environmentally friendly solution and affect your edible crop.

Watering, once you have good plant structure coming out of the ground start assessing the soil moisture in the patch. If you’re not careful you may start over watering your crop. To stop this I stick my finger into the soil next to the plant and check for moisture, if it is moist I leave it another day. Another consideration is if the ground is drying out too quickly, in this instance you may need to add another layer of mulch to assist in retaining the moisture and increase your watering. I still try to do all my watering in the evening to minimize evaporation during the daylight hours.

Harvesting, this would have to be the best time, I love to pop out the back door and come back with a bucket full of edibles.There is no real special method to this, I do like to ensure that I only pick what I need for the day. I also have lots of plants that continue to grow additional vegetables if they haven’t been fully harvested. Over time you will start to enjoy the harvests and learn how to continue your harvests with certain plants. When I harvest Kale for instance, I’ll only pick the bottom leaves of every plant, this way I continue to get good strong continuous growth and yield from the plant.

Folks, I hope this has helped you to get started on your first edible plot. My experiences with creating my own edible plot has been through reading articles, talking to experts and sharing knowledge between friends and just doing it! Don’t worry, I’ve had my share of gardens that haven’t gone well, and its generally because I have missed one of the above mentioned points. Good luck with your edible plot, and let me know if you need any info.

Barks

 

 

 

 

 

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